Clutch and Flywheel Tools
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These are the Mazda Special Tools we have found to be either necessary, or very helpful for working on the clutch and/or flywheel. Some of them (like the Pilot Bearing Remover) may seem somewhat expensive, but pay for themselves the first time they are used by making the job easier and preventing damage to the parts and/or the person performing the repairs.
| Image | Part Number | Description |
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49-1285-0710 | Pilot Bearing Remover makes an absolute breeze of a sometimes almost impossible job. We tried most of the after market removers, many grinders, and homemade tools. The first time we used this correct tool we wondered why we ever bothered with anything else. |
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All Rotary (non-turbo)
Part Number 49-0033-05 All Turbo Part Number 49-0033-03 |
Clutch Alignment Tools are needed whenever a clutch is installed. Damage to the clutch disc is almost assured if alignment is not correct. |
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49-22000 | Flywheel Nut Wrench makes removing the flywheel nut a lot easier when you do not have impact guns and the 2 1/8" socket needed. |
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All non-turbo
flywheels: 49-220NT Does NOT Fit Automatic |
Flywheel
Stopper Bolts to back of engine to hold flywheel while the large nut is taken off. |
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All Turbo/RX-8
flywheels: 49-220TB |
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49-22001 | This type of Flywheel Stopper is simply a flat bar with holes for bolting to the flywheel. It is then rotated until it hits something solid to hold the flywheel while the nut is removed. |
| Flywheel pullers
are available, but we do not carry them, as the flywheel can easily be removed
with a hammer. Click Here to view our flywheel removal FAQ. |
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49-22003 | Rear Counterweight Puller |
| Engine Stand Head | ||
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We have been getting requests for these kind of engine stand HEADS for years - we were always just explaining how to build them. These images show the type we use (you supply the actual engine stand !!) - just rummage around the garage and find some angle iron and pipe the right size, measure things, drill holes on the drill press, chop the right sizes with the chop saw, and weld all the pieces together. For those who do not have angle iron and pipe, a drill press, chop saw, and welder, and an hour or two to spare (but DO have an engine stand) -- we now have them for sale. | |
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Part
Number
(This is the "HEAD" only) (Pipe size is 2 3/8 outside diameter - the most common size. PLEASE be sure your engine stand uses that size!! |
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This type of engine stand head balances very nicely. It allows full engine disassembly and reassembly, easy "flipping" of engine to work on rear, front, bottom, etc. | |
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